Szmulowizna – part of Praga North district

Route proposal and photos by: Monika Masalska

Szmulki – one of the most atmospheric parts of Warsaw Praga with a poor reputation. For us, it is extremely fascinating, although it is slowly being gentrified. We started our walk at Markowska Street, which smells of wisteria in May. The flowers climb the side wall of the tenement house and make a really big impression. In our humble opinion, Szmulowizna is perfect for a weekend wander – between historic tenement houses it is deserted, even a bit sleepy, many buildings and streets have been renovated. The name of Szmulki comes from the protégé of Stanisław August Poniatowski and the richest Jew from Warsaw – Szmul (Samuel) Zbytkower. The areas belonging to it were separated from the actual Praga by the Ząbkowskie tollbooths, which used to stand near today’s Koneser. Centrum Praskie Koneser itself, a revitalized former vodka factory, deserves a separate trip. The axis of our walk is the renovated Kawęczyńska Street. At her stand, among others a large pre-war tram depot, the surprising building of the Dom Pomocy im. Brata Alberta, Burke’s wooden block – one of the last two wooden buildings in Praga Północ – and the monumental Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus.